There is just nothing like drinking boxed sangria out of the plastic cup provided with the sangria (total of four U.S. dollars) on Saturday night in Peru. Sadly I did want to go out tonight but got sucked into a few episodes of “Freaks and Geeks” on the youtube. In latest developments, if you have not heard, Lauren and I are not too thrilled about staying in the area where our nonprofit works. In short, well, we dislike the idea of going back. After spending about nine days in the area, we devised an exit strategy, largely due to the fact that I wanted to celebrate my birthday in a city (not a pueblito of a few hundred people, where they dance twice a year for certain festivities and the only booze sold is chicha (made of corn) on Sundays (I know this due to the unpleasant argument I was awoken to Sunday night between the wife and the drunken husband right above the paperthin ceiling of our room- and the kids were in the room--- that angers me so!) No I wanted to be in a place where there is movement of people and especially where there is culture. The city of Huancayo is located in the sierras of Peru by the highlands. I just love being close to the Andes again. There is just something majestic about the range (especially the snow capped mountains) and the people who live on them. Yesterday for my birthday we saw a Peruvian foklorica band with guitars, charrangas, and the Andean flute. It made me ever so happy! I just cannot explain the feeling I have wandering the marketplace (which I must stop doing) and seeing the brightly colored garments with finely threaded, ornate flowers or the dusty streets of small farming towns. Maybe my love stems from the fact that the area reminds me of where my parents are from in Poland. Both of them come from small farming villages and my grandma used to paint bright flowers on her small cottage. Maybe yes, maybe no, whatever it is I am happy to be back in the highlands. Here Lauren and I are trying to see if we can find a tourism circuit from the Central Highlands to the central cloudforest (where our communities are located) in order to get tourists traveling from here to consider visiting our communities (we have a purpose).
However, I should give the area we are working in some justice. Speaking of the surrounding forest, it is breathtaking. The greenery is plush and full of birds, butterflies, and waterfalls- a stark contrast from the communities. Due to our need to be constantly connected with the outside world, we are staying in the largest town of the district, a town the nonprofit does not actually work with. They actually work with two communities higher up in the cloud forest- both are only a row of houses for about two or three blocks. There, the people are been very inviting to us and the little time we spent there we actually preferred to be there than back in the bigger, connected town. There is either no place to stay or is too cut off from civilization (the community that has the temporary hostel is 1.5 hour away from town, with no realiable bus service that runs through, no electricity, and only has 25 residents).
So you may be asking, what the f- are we doing there?
Good question, a question that has been asked by my mother a few times. I explained it to her and she is almost sold- I had to explain to her that I am not “saving” the world, like curing jungle diseases or rescuing orphans. As a public policy students, I am doing what public policy students do best- collect information and make recommendations! I have worked on this project since September in the Austin office of the nonprofit. I was told what the project was lacking and given general directions of how to remedy that. But after 9 months, very few developments occurred during that time frame. I thought that was because of my doing- I was not putting enough time and effort into the project. Mind you, I was just a part-part time unpaid intern that got little feedback from her supervisors- What was I to do? However, seeing the project firsthand after observing successful ecotourism projects in Peru and Ecuador, I now understand that this project is just not given the time and attention it deserves from the nonprofit. It is a project of many layers- community development, community education, infrastructure development- new buildings, better roads-, nutritious food development, land conservation, etc. The nonprofit relies on volunteers and very little funding- there were times at the office where I felt like the project was never brought up in discussions on future development. Now being here and seeing how many years and dollars are necessary to build up a “successful” community owned and managed ecotourism industry, my mind starts spinning. Wow it’s just so overwhelming. We are here and want to help, but damn… start where? We are going to help build adobe ovens for the communities- there is no oven in the area. The problems are a) we do not much construction experience, b) the communities are not so construction savvy- all their buildings show poor craftsmanship. Nope they are relying on Lauren, myself, Charles-the new volunteer, and google to build the ovens as well as teaching them how to bake bread (also something we have never done before). And they are putting all their trust in us to make this happen. Oh god I do not want to continue failing these communities. It will just be another step back in moving forward with the project. Oh gosh oh gosh. Where was I going with this? Oh yes we have a solid purpose of being here. To deliver the best f-ing writeup for this project… so a) the nonprofit can approach this project the right way and b) so we can apply for some monies for this project.
Ok must brace myself for the return!
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Just realized that my travel blog is more of confessions of an ecotourist, then recallings of fun tales (yes I have some good tales). If you want more of that, check out my pics on facebook or ask me when I get back to the States. Recalling specific days gets to be boring. Some days my only thrill is eating ice cream- not bloggable material.
P.S. Ecuador was amazing! I am sad that we were there for only a week.
P.S. Ecuador was amazing! I am sad that we were there for only a week.
Thoughts before travellling to the communities
I should write something now. I have lots on my mind; however, most importantly as always is food. You would think after two weeks of traveling to some top-notch ecotourism lodges, I would be more eager to share my experiences and my new thoughts on our community project. The truth of the matter is I am super overwhelmed, as is Lauren, my ecotourism partner. After staying in well-established and respected lodges and talking to experts in the field, we have concluded that our project is not on the right track to sustainable success. It’s true that the ecotourism partnership agreement between the communities and our nonprofit only has been so for over a year. But there are about a million things the project still lacks after a year of work.
Most importantly is established safety. Before coming to Peru, I knew that the region where the project is taking place was hard hit during the 1970s and 80s by the narco and guerilla wars staged by the Shining Path. Even though the Shining Path has been virtually eliminated, pockets of them exist throughout the region. That does not worry too much,(Still do NOT tell my mother) since their sporadic attacks are against Peruvian police authorities. What worries me is that this has not been discussed in greater detail in the project, especially as we try to bring more tourists to stay at the hostel. There is an expectation that adventurous tourists do not mind the overnight bus ride to Satipo, and then a 2 hour collectivo up the mountains to the cloud forest of our community. However, many Peruvians(taxi drivers, tour guides) we have spoken to about Satipo mentioned things like coca leaves, rural poverty, and the continuing drug trafficking in town. Ok things like that do not settle well with me. It is hard to assume that international travelers would still want to make the hike to the area without the guarantee of safety; luckily Lauren and I are traveling with the Lima-based project coordinator, so that makes me feel better.
Guaranteeing safety is just another item to put on our long checklist of items to complete within 6 weeks. Other items include establishing a clean water source, and safe, good food for tourists- things that we will need to find for ourselves once we are there. (**Hard for me to imagine as I am writing this from inside a Starbucks in the nicest neighborhood in Lima, while contemplating which restaurant to go to for lunch. FYI I think we are going to get chifa- Peruvian Chinese food***) Hmm the next 6 weeks are going to be the polar opposite of what we have been used to for the last two weeks- no more three course meals, no preplanned tours, and English speaking tourists. I am super excited! For real! I think… ugh not a good time to doubt myself. I, a big city girl, can handle taking on such a big project like this in two communities of a population of 102 in total. Si puedo.
Most importantly is established safety. Before coming to Peru, I knew that the region where the project is taking place was hard hit during the 1970s and 80s by the narco and guerilla wars staged by the Shining Path. Even though the Shining Path has been virtually eliminated, pockets of them exist throughout the region. That does not worry too much,(Still do NOT tell my mother) since their sporadic attacks are against Peruvian police authorities. What worries me is that this has not been discussed in greater detail in the project, especially as we try to bring more tourists to stay at the hostel. There is an expectation that adventurous tourists do not mind the overnight bus ride to Satipo, and then a 2 hour collectivo up the mountains to the cloud forest of our community. However, many Peruvians(taxi drivers, tour guides) we have spoken to about Satipo mentioned things like coca leaves, rural poverty, and the continuing drug trafficking in town. Ok things like that do not settle well with me. It is hard to assume that international travelers would still want to make the hike to the area without the guarantee of safety; luckily Lauren and I are traveling with the Lima-based project coordinator, so that makes me feel better.
Guaranteeing safety is just another item to put on our long checklist of items to complete within 6 weeks. Other items include establishing a clean water source, and safe, good food for tourists- things that we will need to find for ourselves once we are there. (**Hard for me to imagine as I am writing this from inside a Starbucks in the nicest neighborhood in Lima, while contemplating which restaurant to go to for lunch. FYI I think we are going to get chifa- Peruvian Chinese food***) Hmm the next 6 weeks are going to be the polar opposite of what we have been used to for the last two weeks- no more three course meals, no preplanned tours, and English speaking tourists. I am super excited! For real! I think… ugh not a good time to doubt myself. I, a big city girl, can handle taking on such a big project like this in two communities of a population of 102 in total. Si puedo.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Lima and the project
Surprise, surprise! Anna did not update her blog for a while. Well I have plenty of excuses- A) I have been busy doing tourist-y things; B) High altitude makes Anna sleepy, around 9 pm I am usually done for; C) I am very impacient when it comes to Peruvian, slow WI-FI.
Nevertheless, it truly has been a fun ten days… Nicole and I managed to in Lima- see a parade of different costumes from the barrios of Lima, take a bike tour of Miraflores (the upscale neighborhood where I dream of one day living as a fancy diplomat-still have many options of careers, why not put Peruvian elite as one?), went to the best museum ever- the Larco Museum- de verdad the best- the collection of Pre-columbian ceramics and Incan gold and silver was so magnificent that I took 60 plus pictures of the displays (as well as the flowers on the outside terrace- where my wedding will be held if I become a fancy diplomat).
In Lima, I also met with the Lima-based project coordinator as well as the birding agency partner for the ecotourism project I have and will be working on this summer. Super excited in meeting with the community members; however, so much work needs to be done- first of all, what the f- am I going to be doing all summer? I have a detailed outline of my work- goals specified by myself and other staff. However, after talking to each person separately I found that so much work needs to be done- first, each person within this partnership envisions different objectives for the same ecotourism project. Additionally a full survey of community members has yet to be conducted in gathering the information of what they think/ want from such a project. Some much baseline information is needed to make sure that all involved parties are on the same page (ugh this is sounding a bit like a program evaluation). I guess that my main responsibility is to gather information about the community members as well as the municipality; gathering info sounds like it should be easy, as there are only 102 people in total in both communities the project is to serve, but as an outsider I must be culturally sensitive. Machismo is still quite strong in these rural communities- women are not allowed to sit with the men or speak during community meetings- but I was told that I should not have a problem with the men and talking about the project. Actually the Lima-based project coordinator Norma is a super feminista and really wants to empower the women of the community…. All right! Ok that’s all I have in mean right now as I sit in my hostel room curled up in my sleeping bag- darn it gets cold here in Cuzco. Next time I will write about my thoughts of Machu Piccu and other Incan ruins. Check out my pictures on the facebook. Ciao!
Nevertheless, it truly has been a fun ten days… Nicole and I managed to in Lima- see a parade of different costumes from the barrios of Lima, take a bike tour of Miraflores (the upscale neighborhood where I dream of one day living as a fancy diplomat-still have many options of careers, why not put Peruvian elite as one?), went to the best museum ever- the Larco Museum- de verdad the best- the collection of Pre-columbian ceramics and Incan gold and silver was so magnificent that I took 60 plus pictures of the displays (as well as the flowers on the outside terrace- where my wedding will be held if I become a fancy diplomat).
In Lima, I also met with the Lima-based project coordinator as well as the birding agency partner for the ecotourism project I have and will be working on this summer. Super excited in meeting with the community members; however, so much work needs to be done- first of all, what the f- am I going to be doing all summer? I have a detailed outline of my work- goals specified by myself and other staff. However, after talking to each person separately I found that so much work needs to be done- first, each person within this partnership envisions different objectives for the same ecotourism project. Additionally a full survey of community members has yet to be conducted in gathering the information of what they think/ want from such a project. Some much baseline information is needed to make sure that all involved parties are on the same page (ugh this is sounding a bit like a program evaluation). I guess that my main responsibility is to gather information about the community members as well as the municipality; gathering info sounds like it should be easy, as there are only 102 people in total in both communities the project is to serve, but as an outsider I must be culturally sensitive. Machismo is still quite strong in these rural communities- women are not allowed to sit with the men or speak during community meetings- but I was told that I should not have a problem with the men and talking about the project. Actually the Lima-based project coordinator Norma is a super feminista and really wants to empower the women of the community…. All right! Ok that’s all I have in mean right now as I sit in my hostel room curled up in my sleeping bag- darn it gets cold here in Cuzco. Next time I will write about my thoughts of Machu Piccu and other Incan ruins. Check out my pictures on the facebook. Ciao!
Friday, May 20, 2011
Overview
Woot I set up a travel blog to document my journey to finding the truth of ecotourism. I will be in Peru for 8 weeks in total, and a week in Ecuador. My travels are generously funded by the LBJ School and Crook Fellowship, as well as federal loan money (that will be repaid with interest! starting six months after graduation). Cities to be visited, include in Peru, Lima, Cusco, Puerto Maldonando, and the communities of Calabaza and San Antonio (eastern Peru close to the town of Satipo); and in Ecuador, Quito, Mindo, and nearby towns with ecolodges. I am completely and utterly excited to share with you by stories and adventures, in order for you to also be on this journey with me (I like to feel connected with the outside world).
Please note this is my first real blog (aka one that I actually update), so I may not behave virtually the way I should as a blogger. Also I write like I speak (illogically at times yes). My grammar will probably get progressively worse as I replace English with Spanish in the language space of my brain. Stay put and I promise to provide insights and fun stories of my Peruvian travels. You will get to learn a lot about me and my weird interpretation of little things! Yay summer travels!
Please note this is my first real blog (aka one that I actually update), so I may not behave virtually the way I should as a blogger. Also I write like I speak (illogically at times yes). My grammar will probably get progressively worse as I replace English with Spanish in the language space of my brain. Stay put and I promise to provide insights and fun stories of my Peruvian travels. You will get to learn a lot about me and my weird interpretation of little things! Yay summer travels!
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